History of batik Surakarta cannot be separated from the
influence of Javanese palace. Batik Solo originated in the Kingdom of Pajang, of
more than four centuries ago. As is known, which is a continuation of the
kingdom of Demak dynasty transferred the capital administration of Demak
Bintoro to Pajang. As written in kampoenglaweyan.com, Kyai Ageng Henis was a
character who first introduced batik in Laweyan village as it goes into the
kingdom of Pajang. Ki Ageng Henis is Ki Ageng Selo’s son who was a descendant
of Prabu Brawijaya V, the las King of Majapahit Kingdom. He lived in the Laweyan
village since the year 1546 AD.
Ki Ageng Henis known as Ki Ageng Laweyan is "manggala
pinatuwaning nagari" during Jaka Tingkir still a Duke of Pajang. He is
Danang Sutawijaya’s grandfather, the
founder of the Mataram Kingdom.
Laweyan village located on the banks of the River Laweyan,
the former trade center Lawe (woven materials). Raw materials of local cotton are
supplied from Juwiring, Pedan and Gawok. The distribution of goods in the Lawe Market
through Kabanaran river port that not far from that market. First there are
many river port on the edge of the river, such as Bandar Kabanaran, and Bandar
Laweyan. Through this river port that connects the Laweyan village towards Bengawan
Solo River. From here, batik connected with coastal areas.
History of Batik Surakarta Indonesia - Era Kraton Surakarta (Surakarta Palace)
The establishment of Surakarta Palace in 1745 contributed the
development of Batik Surakarta. Starting from the split Surakarta and Yogyakarta
Palace as a result of the Giyanti agreement in 1755. The whole fashion
greatness of Mataram Kingdom brought to Yogyakarta Palace. Meanwhile, the
kingdom of Surakarta, Paku Buwono III ordered his courtiers to make my own
genre Surakarta batik motif.
Of the order was the race to make batik. Appeared many batik
motifs developed in the community. PB III also issued regulations on batik
fabric that may be used in court. There are some specific motifs are allowed to
wear in the palace.
"Ana dene kang arupa jejarit kang kalebu
laranganingsun, bathik sawat, bathik parang lan bathik cemukiran kang calacap
modang, bangun tulak, lenga teleng lan tumpal, apa dene bathik cemukiran kang
calacap lung-lungan, kang sun wenangake anganggoa pepatihingsun lan
sentananingsun dene kawulaningsun pada wedhia."
The type of batik fabric that I forbid, sawat batik fabric, parang
batik fabric and batik fabric cemukiran that led podang a bird's beak, bangun tulak,
teleng oil and intangible tumpal and also batik cemukiran that led to lung
(plant leaves spread on the ground), I let wear is the Patih (governor/vice
king) and my relatives (sentana dalem). While the public (people) are not
allowed.
The courtiers commissioned to design batik dedicated to the
interests of the palace. Those many who lived outside the palace, forming a
community of batik artisans like Kratonan, Kusumodiningratan, and Kauman also
Pasar Kliwon. The materials used and the coloring while still using local
materials such as Java Soga.
History of Batik Surakarta - During XX Century
In the early twentieth century, batik became one of the
identity of the Javanese Islam economy. At this time, batik has entered the era
of industrialization and the formation of groups of traders. One such famous organization
is Sarekat Dagang Islam (Islamic Trade Union), led by KH Samanhudi. He has a
strong trade network to the Kudus, Surabaya, Gresik, Tuban, Cirebon, Bogor up
to Batavia and outside Java. One such his distributor is HOS Cokroaminoto the
figure in the organization of Sarekat Dagang Islam (SDI)
Sarekat Dagang Islam establishment backed trade competition
between the Chinese and Dutch colonial. This organization suggests the
existence of indigenous Javanese Islam in the Dutch colonial rule. While
keeping the existence of batik which became one of the economic pillars of the
Java community. SDI eventually became one of the pioneer organizations of
Indonesia's independence.
Until now Laweyan Solo Batik remain. Laweyan entrepreneurs
never achieve greatness in the era of the 1970s.
Now, the Government of Surakarta made two batik villages in
the city of Solo, the Laweyan village and the Kauman village, located behind
the Great Mosque of Surakarta. One of the famous batik trade center is Klewer
Market.
From various sources, written by Muhammad Nuralim
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